{"id":224,"date":"2021-11-03T09:00:00","date_gmt":"2021-11-03T09:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/specialprojects.sprudge.com\/?p=224"},"modified":"2022-03-30T17:05:24","modified_gmt":"2022-03-30T17:05:24","slug":"can-new-coffee-hybrids-save-the-amazon-from-deforestation","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/specialprojects.sprudge.com\/?p=224","title":{"rendered":"Can New Coffee Hybrids Save The Amazon From Deforestation?"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

When you think of coffee in Brazil, chances are you assume it was brought here by boats, arriving first on the coast. But the true story is less known: coffee actually first entered Brazil in 1727 through the Amazon jungle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The far distance of this date speaks to just how fascinated people have been with coffee across the centuries. For it was this year\u20141727\u2014when Lieutenant Colonel Francisco de Mello Palheta was appointed by Brazil’s colonial power, Portugal, to (unofficially) bring coffee seeds to Brazil from the neighboring colony of French Guiana. This route ran not through the shorelines, but directly through the jungle. Shortly thereafter coffee was first cultivated in Par\u00e1, a state in the Amazon region; in the years after coffee’s cultivation in Brazil spread through other, better-known regions, especially Minas Gerais and S\u00e3o Paulo, which together make most of Brazil coffee exports today.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Nearly 300 years later the coffee world’s attention in Brazil is not focused on the Amazon, but coffee *does* still grow there, though it rarely makes the news. These days most of the international news you hear about the Amazon rainforest features our not-so-environmentally-friendly environment minister, who since the beginning of his mandate has been systematically dismantling environmental protections, contributing to the surge of a 12- year high in the scale of deforestation in 2020. This minister even called on the government to push through further deregulation of environmental policies last year, when people were distracted by the coronavirus.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This is an important story from the Amazon, but it is not the *only* story from the Amazon. I took a closer look at a group of coffee producers in Rond\u00f4nia, a state in the Amazon region, where the production of Canephora\u2014a coffee species commonly known as Robusta<\/a> \u2014is on the rise, with results that might offer an alternative to deforestation in the region.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In a 19-year period, the coffee production area in Rond\u00f4nia has decreased by 77%<\/a>, while productivity has risen from eight to 32 sixty-kilo bags per hectare. Embrapa<\/a> (the Brazilian Agricultural Research Corporation) researchers argue that if coffee productivity is advantageous, deforestation won’t seem appealing to farmers, providing an alternative to deforestation industries like cattle ranching and soybean cultivation.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Canephora Robusta<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Coffee production in Rond\u00f4nia started in the 1970s with immigrants from Esp\u00edrito Santo, Minas Gerais, and Paran\u00e1 (states from the south and southeastern regions in Brazil), attracted by the federal government\u2019s motto at the time: integrar para n\u00e3o entregar<\/em>, or, “to integrate not to give in”. The military considered the region\u2019s territorial occupation an issue of national security, and development efforts that included agricultural incentives, roadbuilding schemes, and mineral extraction rapidly took place. Initially, the producers started cultivating Arabica coffee but gradually switched to Conilon (another variety of the Canephora species) from Esp\u00edrito Santo, and later to robusta, for its adaptability to high temperature, high humidity growing environments.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In 2019 Embrapa made available 10 new hybrid cultivars of Conilon and Robusta (both Canephora cultivars), promising to reach at least three times more productivity than the current ones being used in that area. The research indicated that Conilon stands out for its small size and greater tolerance to water stress, but it has less resistance to coffee rust. Robusta, in turn, has greater resistance to the rust disease and nematodes, and also greater potential for a finer cup (a topic discussed at length in this interview<\/a>). From genetic crossing they obtained new cultivars, expressing the best characteristics of the two varieties.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Canephora coffee cherries.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The Matas de Rond\u00f4nia region is comprised of 15 municipalities, each of which are now proving they can dramatically increase coffee production without the need for deforestation. The forecast for the 2020\/2021 harvest is over 2.3 million bags, produced in a planted area 78% smaller than in 2001. The region is flat and there is practically no winter season, and the average temperature ranges from 23 to 26 degrees Celsius, which is perfect for Canephora cultivation. According to Enrique Alves, Ph.D. in agricultural engineering and researcher at Embrapa, Amazonian robustas produce almost twice as much as arabicas on average in the region. Rond\u00f4nia produces around 96% of all coffee grown in the Brazilian Amazon region, and around 17 thousand families currently<\/strong> work with coffee farms, with an average farm size of only four hectares\u2014small for Brazilian standards.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Alves adds enthusiastically that they are about to receive the Geographical Indication (IG) for the Matas de Rond\u00f4nia Region and its Amazonian robustas. The Geographical Indication, according to the National Institute of Industrial Property (INPI), attests when a certain characteristic or quality of a product or service is due to its geographical origin. \u201cThis will be the first IG for robustas in the world,\u201d he tells me.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Canephora coffees have long been stigmatized, and it’s a complex topic. For many, Robusta, in particular, remains synonymous with low-quality instant coffee and cheaper blends. But Enrique Alves tells me there is a new window of opportunity for producers in the region: the so-called fine Amazonian robustas.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Canephora Robusta roasted coffee<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

\u201cA fine Robusta will have balanced sweetness, acidity, and body,\u201d he tells me, \u201cwhile Arabicas could be brighter and with more delicate bodies.\u201d In fact, many roasters in Brazil are already featuring Amazonian Robustas on their shelves. Rodrigo Torii, a media professional, and former roaster based in Manaus, tells me he was getting samples from within Amazonas state but there was nothing special about them. \u201cUntil the day a friend introduced me to a Robusta from Rond\u00f4nia, then I realized something there was different. It had controlled acidity and quite pleasant fruity notes.\u201d At the same time, Torii pitched the subject to James Hoffmann\u2019s YouTube channel, and now Torii\u2019s video is available<\/a> to Hoffmann’s global audience.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Another roaster who has been working with Rond\u00f4nia indigenous producers is Leo Mo\u00e7o<\/a>, who used Robusta during the 2019 Brazilian barista championship aiming \u201cto break the prejudice between Arabica and Robusta in the specialty coffee market,\u201d\u2014his words during his presentation at the championship, where he placed second. This was the very first time that a Robusta coffee was featured in a barista championship in Brazil. The lot used was from the S\u00e3o Lu\u00eds indigenous land within the Alta Floresta d\u2019Oeste municipality, about 370 miles from the capital of Rond\u00f4nia\u2014produced by Valdir Aru\u00e1.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mo\u00e7o mentioned at the beginning of his work with the Aru\u00e1 family and other indigenous tribes that the idea was to eventually showcase their coffee at a barista championship, imagining it would take a few years for that to happen. But he told me as soon as he tasted the lots of the first harvest after the beginning of his work with them, he had to use the coffee. According to Mo\u00e7o, it was a balanced Robusta with a slight bitterness and notes of cocoa nibs, dark chocolate, and whiskey. The lot went through the Sprouting Process, a term coined by Mo\u00e7o for a special fermentation process in which freshly harvested beans are placed in a plastic drum without oxygen for 15 to 20 days and away from sunlight, inhibiting the development of fungi and bacteria. Mo\u00e7o states that this environment will make it easy for enzymes to break down coffee sugars, and it has been crucial in helping not only indigenous producers but the majority of Rond\u00f4nia producers to improve the quality of their lots.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n

Since then, the Aru\u00e1 indigenous family has continued to stand out in Robusta quality contests. The Aru\u00e1 family had been working with coffee for 18 years, but before participating in competitions coffee for them was just another source of income. Now they see it as way of living. The 22-year-old producer Taw\u00e3 Aru\u00e1 won third place in the state quality and sustainability contest in 2020, following the steps of his father, Valdir Aru\u00e1, who, in 2018, took second place in the same contest.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Enrique Alves<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Enrique Alves at Embrapa emphasizes that despite the appalling news on deforestation, there needs to be caution when one approaches the subject, as there has always been a multi-layered relationship between agriculture and forest. \u201cWe can\u2019t be naive and say that the world’s food production was not based on deforestation. This has always been a reality,\u201d he adds. \u201cThere is a big difference between sustainable food production and environmental degradation.\u201d Alves maintains that Brazil has countless good and bad examples, and his work\u2019s goal through Embrapa is to encourage a new model of integrated and sustainable agricultural production, one that incorporates different combinations between the agricultural, livestock, and forestry components.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Canephora’s role in the future of Brazilian rainforest health is only just beginning to be understood, but the potential is enormous\u2014for the wildlife, the natural environment, the tens of thousands of coffee-growing families, and yes, for those who love a delicious cup of coffee.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Juliana Ganan is a Brazilian coffee professional and journalist. Read more Juliana Ganan on Sprudge<\/a>.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Is Robusta the key to fighting deforestion?<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":236,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"templates\/template-cover.php","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[16,36,37,38],"class_list":["post-224","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-brazil","tag-brazil","tag-canephora","tag-coffee-production","tag-juliana-ganan"],"yoast_head":"\nCan New Coffee Hybrids Save The Amazon From Deforestation? - Sprudge Special Projects Desk<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/specialprojects.sprudge.com\/?p=224\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Can New Coffee Hybrids Save The Amazon From Deforestation? 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